No such thing as too wide a baffle, only a point of diminishing returns. 30? is normally the minimum unless near a wall or corner boundary before potentially needing any baffle step loss correction [BSC], so if practical, making the cab just deep enough for the driver plus a rear panel mounted brace/cradle to maximize baffle width ?kills two birds with one stone?.
Harry Olson?s circa 1950 tall reflex designed for a home ?high quality? sound system [later marketed as the LS-11] ?taught? me that placing vents up near the driver in a tower alignment isn?t a very efficient use of its high aspect ratio, so recommend the vent[s] be placed closer to the bottom to take advantage of the cab?s ? WL pipe action to provide some acoustic loading to them plus any mid bass notching due to floor bounce will be greatly reduced.
Anyway, the first sim is yours, the second with the vents relocated down 40? from the top and the third is a net Vb = Vas, Fb = Fs MLTL to get the driver up to the desired 42? seated ear height, so 64.5? i.d. tall, WxD = ~331.78?^2, driver down 22.5?, vents down 51.6?, though only baffle thickness [0.75?] long to get the lower tuning due to the additional TL loading.
Spikes not factored in, but an inch either way shouldn?t be audible and if you have a floating floor, the spikes may help.
Regardless, mass loading the cab to the floor is desirable as it can audibly ?tighten up? the bass line, sometimes even with cabs this large, so a large ?hanging gardens? potted plant is a potential tweak with some WAF and the foliage does a decent job of damping spurious reflections off the cab/driver.
GM
